288. Koa Smith: You're Facing Your Fear the Wrong Way. A Top Big-Wave Surfer's Method
You think some people are just born without fear, but my guest Koa Smith has spent 15 years paddling into waves big enough to kill him, and he'll tell you the opposite: fear never leaves, the whole game is what you do when it shows up. After a reef injury knocked him unconscious underwater and left him eight months…
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